4 Cs Of Diamonds

Various characteristics of diamonds are graded and categorized by the diamond industry. Learning about diamonds is first learning about the "four Cs" of diamonds which are considered the most important grades and categories:

• Cut
• Clarity
• Color
• Carat weight

These are the criteria jewelers use when grading diamonds, and they're the ones you'll need to understand to buy the right diamond for you.

And then there's the "Fifth C":

• Certificates

Cut

Cut is probably the most important, and most challenging, of the four Cs to understand. The brilliance of a diamond depends heavily on its cut.

• Read more about Diamond Cut...

Clarity

Most diamonds contain some inner flaws, or inclusions, that occur during the formation process. The visibility, number and size of these inclusions determine what is called the clarity of a diamond. Diamonds that are clear create more brilliance, and thus are more highly prized, and priced.

• Read more about Diamond Clarity...

Color

Colorless diamonds are the most desirable since they allow the most refraction of light (sparkle). Off white diamonds absorb light, inhibiting brilliance.

• Read more about Diamond Color...

Carat Weight

A carat is the unit of weight by which a diamond is measured. Because large diamonds are found less commonly than small diamonds, the price of a diamond rises exponentialy to its size. Read this guide to get a better understanding of what a carat is and how it affects the appearance of a diamond.

• Read more about Diamond Carat weight...

The Fifth C: Certificates

The diamond certificate, which is sometimes called a grading report, is a complete evaluation of your diamond that has been performed by a qualified professional with the help of special gemological instruments. Each stone bears its own recognizable, individual characteristics, which is listed on the certificate.

• Read more about diamond certificates...

Diamond Cut

      ! Don't confuse the diamond's "cut" with the diamond's "shape."

First, don't confuse diamond "cut" with "shape." Shape refers to the general outward appearance of the diamond, (such as round, emerald, or pear). When a diamond jeweler (or a diamond certificate) says "cut," that's a reference to the diamond's reflective qualities, not the shape (or at least it should be, we have found that even some "jewelers" don't appear to know the difference between "cut" and "shape").

      ! The quality of the "cut" does make a difference in how a diamond looks.

(See Diamond Anatomy for an explanation of the terms used in the next paragraphs.)As shown in the images below, when a diamond is well-cut, light enters through the table and travels to the pavilion where it reflects from one side to the other before reflecting back out of the diamond through the table and to the observer's eye. This light is the brilliance we mentioned, and it's this flashing, fiery effect that makes diamonds so mesmerizing.

Good Proportions are Key
Most gemologists agree that the best cut diamonds are those that follow a set of formulae calculated to maximize brilliance. These formulae can be seen in a diamond's proportions, most importantly how the depth compares to the diameter, and how the diameter of the table compares to the diameter of the diamond.

        ! If you opt to buy a diamond without an AGS certificate, spend some time
          looking at certified diamonds (where you know the Cut Grade) and train your
          eyes to identify the better cuts (by their "sparkle"). Cut does make a
          difference to the outward appearance of a diamond.


However, the variance in the proportions between an Ideal Cut and a Poor Cut can be difficult to discern by the casual observer.

Because cut is so important, several grading methods have been developed to help consumers determine the cut of a particular diamond. In general, these grades are:

• Ideal
• Excellent or Premium
• Very Good
• Good
• Fair & Poor

Which Grade of Cut Should I Buy?
Selecting the grade of cut is really a matter of preference. To make the best selection, you need to understand the various grades. Please note that the descriptions below are general guidelines.

Ideal Cut
This cut is intended to maximize brilliance, and the typically smaller table sizes of these diamonds have the added benefit of creating a great deal of dispersion or 'fire' as well. Ideal quality diamonds are truly for the person who enjoys knowing that he has one of the finest things that money can buy. This category applies only to round diamonds.

Excellent or Premium
In the case of round diamonds, many Excellent or Premium Cut diamonds have cuts that are the equal of any Ideal Cut diamond, though they often can be purchased at slightly lower prices than AGS Ideal Cuts. They are intended to provide maximum brilliance and fire. Like the Ideal Cut, these are also for the person who enjoys knowing that he has one of the finest things that money can buy.

Very Good
These diamonds reflect most of the light that enters them, creating a good deal of brilliance. With these diamonds, the cutters have chosen to stray slightly from the preferred diamond proportions in order to create a larger diamond. The result is that these diamonds fall slightly outside of some customers' preferences in terms of, for example, table size or girdle width, though, in many cases many of the parameters of diamonds in this range will overlap with certain parameters of diamonds in the Ideal or Premium ranges. Generally, the price of these diamonds in slightly below that of Premium cuts.

Good
Diamonds that reflect much of the light that enters them. Their proportions fall outside of the preferred range because the cutter has chosen to create the largest possible diamond from the original rough crystal, rather than cutting extra weight off to create a smaller Premium quality diamond. Diamonds in this range offer an excellent cost-savings to customers who want to stay in a budget without sacrificing quality or beauty.

Fair & Poor
A diamond graded as fair or poor reflects only a small proportion of the light that enters it. Typically these diamonds have been cut to maximize the carat weight over most other considerations.

Diamond Anatomy
Wondering what on earth is the diamond's pavillion? Table? Culet? The graphic and supporting text below explain the various "parts" of a diamond.

                                                  Click for a large readable angels image.
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• Diameter
  The width of the diamond as measured through the girdle.
• Table
  This is the large, flat top facet of a diamond.
• Crown
  The upper portion of a cut gemstone, above the girdle.
• Girdle
  The narrow rim of a diamond that separates the crown from the pavilion. It is the largest diameter to any part of the stone.
• Pavilion
  The lower portion of the diamond, below the girdle. It is sometimes referred to as the base.
• Culet
  The tiny facet on the pointed bottom of the pavilion, which is the portion of a cut gem below the girdle. 
• Depth
  The height of a gemstone, from the culet to the table.
  
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Diamond Clarity

        ! For clarity grades F through SI, inclusions (internal flaws) are NOT visible to
          the naked eye.

When we speak of a diamond's clarity, we are referring to the presence of identifying characteristics on (blemishes) and within (inclusions) the stone.

If you think about the incredible amount of pressure it takes to create a diamond and the fact that natural diamonds are not grown in a sterile laboratory, it's no surprise that most diamonds have flaws.

Basically there are two types of flaws: inclusions and blemishes. Inclusions refer to internal flaws and blemishes refer to surface flaws. However, in the diamond grades listed below, you'll note that none of the grades include the term "blemish" -- for the purposes of grading diamonds, all flaws are called "inclusions."

Inclusions include flaws such as air bubbles, cracks, and non-diamond minerals found in the diamond. Blemishes include scratches, pits, and chips. Some blemishes occur during the cutting processes (most often at the girdle). Diamonds with no or few inclusions and blemishes are more highly valued than those with less clarity because they are rarer.

How are diamonds graded for clarity?

Diamonds are graded for clarity under 10x loupe magnification. Grades range from Flawless (diamonds which are completely free of blemishes and inclusions), to Included 3 (diamonds which possess large, heavy blemishes and inclusions that are visible to the naked eye).

• F
  Flawless: No internal or external flaws. Extremely rare.
• IF
  Internally Flawless: no internal flaws, but some surface flaws. Very rare.
• VVS1-VVS2
  Very Very Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions very difficult to detect under 10x magnification by a trained gemologist.
• VS1-VS2
  Very Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions seen only with difficulty under 10x magnification.
• SI1-SI2
  Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions more easily detected under 10x magnification.
  
  REMEMBER: For grades F through SI, a diamond's clarity grade has an impact on the diamond's value, not on the unmagnified diamond's appearance.

I1-I2-I3
Included (three grades). Inclusions visible under 10x magnification AS WELL AS to the human eye. We do not recommend buying diamonds in any of these grades.

While the presence of these clarity characteristics (inclusions and blemishes) do lower the clarity grade of a diamond, they can also be viewed as proof of a diamond's identity. GIA certificates include what is known as a "plot" of a diamond's inclusions -- think of it as a "diamond fingerprint." Since no two diamonds are exactly the same, comparing the uniqueness of your diamond's clarity characteristics with the plot provided on the diamond certificate offers assurance that the diamond you pay for is the same diamond you receive.

Which Clarity Grade Should I Choose?
While Flawless diamonds are the rarest, a diamond does not have to be flawless to be stunning.

In fact, until you drop to the "I" grade, a diamond's clarity grade has an impact on the diamond's value, not on the unmagnified diamond's appearance.

Diamonds with VVS and VS grades are excellent choices for both value and appearance.More affordable (and still a great choice) are those diamonds which gemologists call "eye-clean" - diamonds with no inclusions visible to the naked eye. These diamonds are SI1
and SI2 and unless the recipient carries a 10X loupe (a strong jewelry magnifying glass), she won't see the inclusions.

As to I1-I3? Maybe when there's a diamond grade that's defined as "you can see the flaws just by looking at the diamond," nothing more needs to be said.

Okay, to be "fair" to I1-I3 -- not everyone notices visible flaws in a diamond. And not all "visible" flaws are "equally" visible -- think about the difference between dripping mustard on a starched white dress shirt and dripping mustard on a brightly-colored Hawaiian shirt (not that we think you have a lot of mustard dripping experience). Obviously, one shows up a lot more than the other -- visible diamond flaws are like that.But if you choose to buy an I1-I3 diamond (which we don't really recommend), know that some people will look at it and immediately see the flaws -- and not just experienced jewelers.

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Diamond Search and Engagement Ring Builder:

Over 32,000 diamonds for viewing in our Online inventory

Our diamonds are available with the following Certificates
GIA |  EGL | AGS | AGL | IGI | HRD | GUB | Gemscan

First, select your Diamond by Shape, Size, Color, Clarity and Budget...
Then choose the Ideal setting for You!

Diamond Color

When jewelers speak of a diamond's color, they are usually referring to the presence or absence of color in white diamonds. Color is a result of the composition of the diamond, and it never changes over time.

Because a colorless diamond, like a clear window, allows more light to pass through it than a colored diamond, colorless diamonds emit more sparkle and fire. The formation process of a diamond ensures that only a few, rare diamonds are truly colorless. Thus the whiter a diamond's color, the greater its value.

         ! Diamonds graded G through I show virtually no color that is visible
              to the untrained eye.

[NOTE: Fancy color diamonds do not follow this rule. These diamonds, which are very rare and very expensive, can be any color from blue to green to bright yellow. They are actually more valuable for their color.]To grade 'whiteness' or colorlessness, most jewelers refer to GIA's professional color scale that begins with the highest rating of D for colorless, and travels down the alphabet to grade stones with traces of very faint or light yellowish or brownish color. The color scale continues all the way to Z.

Which Color Grade Should I Choose?

Diamonds graded D through F are naturally the most valuable and desirable because of their rarity. Such diamonds are a treat for the eyes of anyone. But you can still obtain very attractive diamonds that are graded slightly less than colorless. And diamonds graded G through I show virtually no color that is visible to the untrained eye.

And while a very, very faint hint of yellow will be apparent in diamonds graded J through M, this color can often be minimized by carefully selecting the right jewelry in which to mount your diamond. Keep in mind that, while most people strive to buy the most colorless diamond they can afford, there are many people who actually prefer the warmer glow of lower-color diamonds.

What is Flourescence?
Fluorescence is an effect that is seen in some gem-quality diamonds when they are exposed to long-wave ultraviolet light (such as the lighting frequently seen in dance clubs). Under most lighting conditions, this fluorescence is not detectable to the eye. While most gemologists prefer diamonds without this effect, some people enjoy it. It's really just a matter of aesthetics.

Diamond Fluorescence

When we speak of Diamond Fluorescence, we are referring to the diamonds tendency to emit a soft colored glow when subjected to ultraviolet light (such as a "black light").

Before going into the details of fluorescence, here's our overall opinion: the simple existence or absence of fluorescence should not influence your decision to purchase a diamond.

         ! Diamond Fluorescence is a hotly debated topic in the diamond industry,
              but a 1997 study by the GIA suggests fluorescence makes very little
              difference to the appearance of the diamond.

In the diamond industry, the existence of fluorescence in a diamond (caused by the natural mineral properties of the diamond), has caused many debates and has, in many instances, influenced the pricing of diamonds.

Simulated fluorescence

It is common to find that diamonds with colorless grades (D-E-F) or near colorless grades (G-H-I-J) are lower in price when they exhibit fluorescence and faint yellow grades (K-L-M) are higher in price when exhibiting fluorescence.

The "theory" has been that: 1) fluorescence has a negative impact on colorless diamonds (making them appear cloudy) and 2) a positive impact on faint yellows (blue fluorescence supposedly counter-balancing the yellow color and making the diamond appear whiter).

Given the results of a 1997 GIA study on the effect of ultraviolet fluorescence on a diamond's appearance, we tend to toss the first half of that theory out the window and give slightly less credence to the second half.

The GIA study selected a group of similarly graded diamonds with varying degrees of fluorescence to be observed and commented on by study participants. Participants in the study included: trained diamond graders, trade professionals (e.g., jewelers), and average observers (general jewelry buying public).

Here's a quote from the study:

"For the average observer, meant to represent the jewelry buying public, no systematic effects of fluorescence were detected. Even the experienced observers did not consistently agree on the effects of fluorescence from one stone to the next.

"In general, the results revealed that strongly blue fluorescent diamonds were perceived to have a better color appearance when viewed table-up [ed: right-side up, as when placed in a setting] with no discernible trend table-down [ed: upside-down]. Most observers saw no relationship between fluorescence and transparency."

In other words, for the average observer fluorescence made no difference and experienced observers (diamond graders and trade professional) did not agree on the influence of fluorescence. And contrary to previous theories, the experienced/trained observers most consistently determined that diamonds with strong fluorescence were the ones with the best color.

Bottom Line on Fluorescence

Don't let flourescence unduly influence your choice when selecting a diamond.

If industry experts can't agree on the influence of flourescence and constantly split hairs over its effect, we feel it falls into the range of minutiae that simply serves to confound and confuse, rather than inform the diamond buying public.

However, because of industry debate and prejudice (which appears unfounded), you may find colorless or near-colorless diamonds that exhibit fluorescence have slightly lower prices than those that do not. Our opinion? Enjoy the lower price.

Of course, if you are buying diamonds as an investment and intend resale, you'll want to pay attention to how the industry prices diamonds with fluoresence -- independent of whether the price difference is justified.

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Carat Weight

A carat is a unit of measurement, it's the unit used to weigh a diamond. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams.

! Size does matter. It is not, however, a measure of your love.

! Keep in mind that differences in size are clearly visible... even to the
  untrained eye.

The word "carat" is taken from the carob seeds that people once used in ancient times to balance scales. So uniform in shape and weight are these little seeds that even today's sophisticated instruments cannot detect more than three one-thousandths of a difference between them.

[NOTE: Don't confuse "carat weight" with "karat," the method of determining the purity of gold.]The process that forms a diamond happens only in very rare circumstances, and typically the natural materials required are found only in small amounts. That means that larger diamonds are uncovered less often than smaller ones. Thus, large diamonds are rare and have a greater value per carat. For that reason, the price of a diamond rises exponentionaly to its size.

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What Size Diamond Should I Buy?

• First, determine your budget. One general rule of thumb when buying a diamond engagement ring is "two months salary." This is just a guideline, it's not carved in stone and your first consideration should be what you can comfortably afford -- not what the diamond industry or a jeweler tells you (they are not unbiased in this matter).
• Deciding on carat size is really about striking a balance between size and quality. If she prefers larger jewelry items, and you are working within a budget, you can still find a larger diamond of excellent quality gem by selecting one which is graded slightly lower in terms of color and clarity.
• Remember that slender fingers make small diamonds look bigger. If she has small fingers, a 1-carat diamond will look proportionately large -- and an even larger stone may appear stunningly big!

Think about what sort of setting will hold the diamond. You'll have to be sure that the setting you choose is made to fit the carat weight of your diamond.

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Diamond Shapes

The classic diamond is, to most people, a round gem of sparkling white brilliance with a kaleidoscope of dazzling facets to entice the eye.

Yes and no. Diamonds are natural crystals of varying size and shape formed in the earth over millions of years. The traditional round brilliant diamond, though the most popular diamond shape of all, is hardly the whole story.

By the diamond cutter's art these crystals are carved into gems of spectacular and whimsical beauty. A cutter's skill will produce a diamond of the greatest size with the fewest flaws and the most brilliance.

Round Brilliant Diamonds
This shape has set the standard for all other diamond shapes, and accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold today. Its 58-facet cut, divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base), is calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance.

Oval Diamonds
An even, perfectly symmetrical design popular among women with small hands or short fingers. Its elongated shape gives a flattering illusion of length to the hand.

Marquise Diamonds
An elongated shape with pointed ends inspired by the fetching smile of the Marquise de Pompadour and commissioned by the Sun King, France's Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match it. It is gorgeous when used as a solitaire or when enhanced by smaller diamonds.

Pear Shaped Diamonds
A hybrid cut, combining the best of the oval and the marquise, it is shaped most like a sparkling teardrop. It also belongs to that category of diamond whose design most complements a hand with small or average-length fingers. It is particularly beautiful for pendants or earrings.

Heart Shaped Diamonds
This ultimate symbol of romance is essentially a pear-shaped diamond with a cleft at the top. The skill of the cutter determines the beauty of the cut. Look for a stone with an even shape and a well-defined outline.

Trillion / Trilliant Diamonds
This is a spectacular wedge of brittle fire. First developed in Amsterdam, the exact design can vary depending on a particular diamond's natural characteristics and the cutter's personal preferences. It may be a traditional triangular shape with pointed corners or a more rounded triangular shape with 25 facets on the crown, 19 facets on the pavilion, and a polished girdle. It is definitely for the adventurous.

Radiant Diamonds
This square or rectangular cut combines the elegance of the emerald shape diamond with the brilliance of the round, and its 70 facets maximize the effect of its color refraction. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon.

The shape of things to come in diamonds has already produced other fanciful and innovative styles such as the flower, cloverleaf, triangle and kite. Nor does it stop there. Some cuts are variations on standard shapes, others spin off the natural crystal formation of the stone, and still others take the idea of shape to revolutionary new heights. Individuality and taste determine the fashion, and the magic of the gem cutter transforms each stone into a unique work of art.

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Diamond Certificates

Loose Diamonds and Certificates

What are GIA Certified Diamonds and AGS Certified Diamonds? Loose diamonds (not pre-set in a ring or other setting) that have been certified by GIA (Gemological Institute of America) or AGS (American Gem Society).

A certificate is a "blueprint" of a diamond, it tells you the diamond's exact measurements and weight, as well as the details of its cut and quality. It precisely points out all the individual characteristics of the stone. Certificates also serve as proof of the diamond's identity and value.

How GIA Grades Diamonds

People from all over the world send their diamonds to GIA for grading and analysis. Our clients put their business in our hands and their trust in our expertise – and we are extremely careful with both.

Triple Redundancy
Grade it. Grade it again. And then grade it again. Diamonds submitted for Diamond Grading services are examined by a minimum of four highly trained and experienced diamond graders and gemologists. At each subsequent grading step, the diamond is independently examined by a more senior staff member.

Inspection, Care, and Handling Procedures
At every step of the servicing process, special inspection, care, and handling procedures are in place to confirm a diamond’s identity and ensure the diamond is managed with the utmost care.

Anonymity
Client anonymity during the grading process is essential. Almost immediately after the diamond is received, it is placed in a custom designed, transparent storage case, and all reference to the submitting client is removed. Client information is completely masked within the software diamond graders use to enter their assessments. And this information is only attached to the diamond when the item is matched with its corresponding report and prepared for return to the client.

Inventory Control and Routing
Random doesn’t just happen. There’s a system, a science, and an entire department dedicated to it. The Inventory Control Department serves as the hub for Laboratory operations. Between each and every step of the grading process, a diamond is distributed from and returned to this department, ensuring that the distribution of diamonds to graders is completely random. This is just one critical step in an independent and impartial grading process.

Every diamond or gemstone is tracked electronically, so that the Laboratory can pinpoint its exact whereabouts at any time, and view and review each step during the grading process. To say that the laboratory’s routing and inventory control measures are meticulous is something of an understatement. With thousands of diamonds, and hundreds of diamond graders, the routing and tracking of the Laboratory’s inventory requires a highly trained and alert staff, combined with the best support technology can offer.

Who Issues Certificates?

There are many diamond labs that issue certificates, but the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gem Society (AGS) are the two most widely regarded and recognized diamond grading labs in the world.

Why Do I Need a Certificate?

Shopping for certified diamonds allows you to make an informed choice about your selections, and to comparison shop. You can compare one diamond with a particular weight and quality with other diamonds of similar weight and quality to determine which is the better value.

[NOTE: If a jewelry store offers to sell you a loose diamond without a certificate, keep in mind that it means you are buying the diamond based only on the salesperson's claim about its quality, and that a trained gemologist or even other jewelers may disagree with the salesperson's assessment.]

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Diamond Search and Engagement Ring Builder:

Over 32,000 diamonds for viewing in our Online inventory

Our diamonds are available with the following Certificates
GIA |  EGL | AGS | AGL | IGI | HRD | GUB | Gemscan

First, select your Diamond by Shape, Size, Color, Clarity and Budget...
Then choose the Ideal setting for You!

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Gemtech Int'l. Corp.  D/B/A Yosepha Jewelry Designs
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